A Long, Long Way from Home

If the German Navy didn’t believe in the "clash of civilizations" – dread of the post-September 11 world – it must now.

But this does not mean imminent world war, as some would fear.

As part of its deployment in the US-led "war on terror", 1,800 German sailors now spend their evenings in the clash’s very heartland.

No, that’s not land-locked Afghanistan. Until the US started bombing, there was a war in Afghanistan, but not much clash of civilizations. The German sailors, manning three frigates, have landed at the main port in Djibouti.

From there, they plan to launch monitoring operations of the Red Sea region, with a special focus on sea traffic between Yemen and Somalia, starting in early February.

But as long as they stay anchored in the port capital, Djibouti, which boasts a population of 320,000, the German sailors are invited to descend upon the town.

Come on in

So far, they have been made welcome by the people and state, though government officials have warned against any potential US-led attacks against Somalia on unconfirmed suspicions that El Qaeda cells are operating in the country.

Duties and exercise keep the sailors on board their vessels during the days, but they hit the town by night.

On their way to the city’s popular hangouts, in districts like the bar-rich but low-budget Quartier Africain, the sailors pass through a world inhabited by three distinct civilizations, clashing so constantly that they mix into a single one that is distinctly Djiboutian – African, Arab and French colonial – now with the added touch of German military police, posted to keep sailors out of trouble.

Djiboutians are used to foreign military presence, especially French. German sailors are just the latest twist in the country’s complicated history as a willing (and sometimes unwilling) host of foreign powers.

Djibouti, with its population of about half a million, has rarely fully belonged to its own people.

The capital city is a French colonial construction, but colonial government ended in 1977 during a period of accelerating unrest and resistance – making Djibouti the last country on Africa’s mainland to expel the French. It saw civil wars during the 1990s but has lately enjoyed relative calm, especially in the capital.

Taste of home

For the German sailors who set sail early in the new year, and just arrived this weekend, at least one thing is familiar: despite the influence of Arab culture – over 90 percent of the population is Muslim – they can still go out an buy a beer. It may taste a little like home.

And it might cool the sailors down. The Djiboutian heat is proving less than comfortable for many.

In evening air that rarely dips below 30 degrees Celsius (86 degrees Fahrenheit), sailors in khaki uniforms fill up the city’s bars, in search of a cool-down.

"It’s supposed to be winter here, but its extremely hot for us," a sailor called Dominic told Reuters. "In the ship it’s even worse."

The military situation in the region, for now, at least, remains cool.