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Burkina Faso's youth utilize free-speech sanctuaries

DW reporters in Ouagadougou
January 6, 2024

Away from classrooms, Burkina Faso's 'grins de thé' are where the hottest debates take place. Young minds untangle political knots, defy language edicts and dream of a bolder future for their nation — over cups of tea.

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A man waves a Burkina Faso flag as others demonstrate
Burkina Faso's 'grins' have emerged as crucial sanctuaries for free expression across the West African countryImage: Olympia de Maismont/AFP

On the vibrant streets of Dassasgho, a popular neighborhood in Burkina Faso's capital Ouagadougou, a unique phenomenon thrives — the so-called Grin de thé, a French phrase that describes a gathering of a group of friends.

The Grin de thé in Dassasgho serves as platform for university students and other young people to engage in lively debates, share jokes — and even question societal decisions and policies.

"There are no restrictions, there are no constraints, there are no regulations," Alassane Traore, one of the young students participating in the day's discussions, told DW.

"Also, these are spaces where no subject is taboo, no topic is too sensitive to be broached," Traore said. 

"I think that there is already this ease, there is already the environment itself, which is conducive to everyone being able to express themselves freely."

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The language debate

Those gathered discuss the controversial relegation of French to the status of a mere working language by Burkinabe military authorities last month.

"Sixty years after independence, I think it was more than necessary for us to rebuild our identity because language is a reflection of our identity," said Toure, a local student. "I don't know what you're thinking..." 

Toure's words spark dissent.

"I don't agree with you because, quite simply, we are in a context where we shouldn't make that decision," Birba, another student, said.

Kobore comes in strongly, to defend Toure's position arguing that the situation was one of urgency.

"What exactly are you saying — it's time?" he asked. 

A crowd celebrate at Place de la Nation, Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso
Many young Burkinabes have routinely voiced anti-French sentiments — and support for the country's post-coup military rulersImage: Sophie Garcia/AP/picture alliance

French vs. local languages

While the opponents of the military leaders' decision to relegate French find themselves in the minority, their determination to be heard is unwavering.

"When we even say that it is a working language, many people can't understand. What percentage of people speak French?" Toure asked.

The Burkinabe government last month passed a bill officially designating country's national languages as the new official languages – demoting French to the status of a working language.

In a country where 58% of people speak French, proponents of the change have argued that it is crucial to promote national languages, especially during the ongoing transition period.

"Few people understand French, but it is better to promote our national languages," said Michel.

But Birba disagrees, emphasizing that the timing is wrong.

"Currently, we are in the midst of a transition. So, we can't let this pass. There are some decisions that we shouldn't make right now," he said.

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Power of Grin de Thé

The relegation of French as a working language has proven to be a divisive issue, with few daring to openly express their views.

According to Traore, the Grin de thé is where the power of "the Grin" comes in.

"Everyone can freely express their thoughts without being disturbed," he said.

The Grin de thé acts as both a refuge and a resource space.

Here, the usual hierarchies that structure social relations are blurred, allowing for an open dialogue that reflects the pulse of the community.

In a nation grappling with linguistic transitions, the grins have emerged as crucial sanctuaries for free expression amidst the brewing linguistic and geopolitical intricacies.

This article has been adapted from French by Mimi Mefo Takambou