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In a model's shoes

Gero Schliess / jbFebruary 18, 2015

Walking the catwalk at New York Fashion Week is any model's dream. But the job can be a lot less glamorous than it might seem. DW spent a day with an aspiring male model.

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USA Mode New York Fashion Week Max Esken bei Probe
Image: DW/G. Schließ

Max Esken is standing in a huge space that used to be a factory in New York City. Around 20 other young men are there as well. You could mistake them for a bunch of students - if it wasn't for their absurdly good looks and the long racks of clothes standing behind them.

They are male models about to present the new collection of New York label Duckie Brown. "It's just fantastic to be here," says Esken just before the show. "It's more fun to work here than in Europe. You can't even compare it."

Stepping stone for models

Max is 22 and has been modeling for two years now. It's his second stint at the New York Fashion Week, together with his friend Dominik Hahn, 20. "It's amazing to be here when all the attention of the fashion world is focused on New York," says Dominik.

Lena Gercke, the winner of the first season of Heidi Klum's casting show "Germany's Next Topmodel," agrees with her younger male colleagues. "New York is definitely an important stepping stone in a model's career," she says. "All the big brands and famous clients are here."

Fashion Week in New York
The New York Fashion Week is known for casual but classy designsImage: Getty Images/R. Adar

Fashion designers from the US, Europe and Asia are showing their new collections for the upcoming fall and winter season until February 19. Among them are household names like Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Diane von Fürstenberg, and Calvin Klein. Hugo Boss is the only German label that regularly takes to the catwalk at New York Fashion Week.

"What makes New York Fashion Week so unique is that it reflects American culture, a specifically American aesthetic," says Michael Anthony Arguella, PR consultant in the fashion business. The New York style is more casual, he says - urban sportswear that can be worn on the street.

Get discovered, then work hard

Back with Max Esken at the Duckie Brown: He is sporting a flamboyant glittery outfit comprised of pants and a sweater: "Personally, it's not my style. I guess you have to be a fan of glitter to like this."

After landing in New York last week, Esken immediately had to rush to his apartment, drop of his stuff, pack his backpack and hurry to his first casting. The days at Fashion Week can be long for a model: castings, fittings, shootings, shows. The Duckie Brown show is only one of many presentations for Esken today.

"I was a bit late for my first show this morning," he says with a grin. "They quickly did my hair and make-up and then I was on the runway."

USA Mode New York Fashion Week Max Esken beim Walk
Fashion shows are held in different locations all over the city during fashion weekImage: DW/G. Schließ

But time pressure isn't the only challenge: "Duckie Brown is my first show where we have to change outfits while the whole audience is watching. They are all sitting there," he says pointing to the back of the room. The young models are not given any privacy. The audience is watching while the men are changing pants and shirts behind the racks.

Esken's modeling career hadn't necessarily been a lifelong dream. His first time on the catwalk was a favor to a friend who is studying fashion design. "She wanted me to present her collection because I'm tall," he says.

After that, he got a call from a modeling agency.

Modelling takes a toll on your body

The fact that his looks make a lasting impression on many people isn't something Esken obsesses about. "Many people say that what makes me stand out are my eyes and eyebrows and my hands. I don't think my hands are that special, though."

While models have a reputation for following rigid diets and working out constantly, Esken claims he doesn’t have a grueling routine like that . "Before I started modeling I was constantly on the field playing soccer. Sadly, I can't do that anymore. I just try to keep my muscles working and I also don't pay that much attention to what I eat."

Fashion Week in New York
Image: Getty Images/R. Adar

Michael Anthony Arguella is more critical of unrealistic body ideals in the fashion business. "I would recommend to all young models to quit the business." The fashion industry needs to start working with normal body types that represent everyone, he says. Young models would often exploit their bodies and "modeling careers are almost never sustainable over a long period of time."

Esken is thinking about studying fashion management. But for now he is concentrating on his modeling career. He will carry on as long as he's successful, he says while changing back into his own clothes.

He has to hurry so he won't be late for the last show he is booked for today.